Where Does Vermentino Wine Originate?

This question has attracted the interest of experts and enthusiasts alike: where was this Italian gem born? Ampelographers worldwide are still trying to retrace its history, although data and evidence seem to complicate the situation even further. In Italy, it has spread to the western regions that border the Tyrrhenian Sea, then to the coast of Tuscany, to the Cinque Terre in Liguria, to the Colli di Luni and finally to almost the entire coastal territory of Sardinia. But how did it get here?

The first leading theory is that this variety originated in Liguria, as Gallesio mentions in 1834 in his book Pomona Italiana. He describes Vermentino and Vernaccia using the same terms, assuming that their origin was Italian, and explains how the Genoese enjoyed and sold white wines. Therefore, some experts consider it to be an indigenous grape, which originated and spread throughout Italy and eventually made its way to Corsica, Provence, Spain, and even Madeira.

A second, widely accepted hypothesis suggests that this white grape has migrated in the opposite direction. It might have been native to the island of Madeira in Portugal, formerly known as 'codega', and then spread throughout the Iberian Peninsula, southern France and finally to Italy. It is no coincidence that it has several characteristics in common with the local Malvasia variety.

Some believe the Argonese region in north-eastern Spain is its homeland, although it is no longer present there. However, recent studies conducted by Mainardi seem to disprove all previous theories and claim that its roots lie in the ancient Middle East, where the Arabs, skilled traders, exported it to Western Europe.

Recent genetic research has further complicated these controversies, showing that the Favorita grape in Piedmont and the Pigato grape in Liguria are clones of this variety, even though they are listed in the National Register as native grapes.

Vermentino Grape Characteristics

Vermentino is a white grape variety distinguished by its robustness and adaptability to different terroirs. Its aromatic characteristics often include hints of citrus fruits, such as lemon and grapefruit, alongside notes of white peach, green apple and herbs. It offers a fresh and vibrant profile in the mouth, with a lively acidity that makes it particularly suitable for drinking young, enhancing its freshness and pleasantness. 

However, thanks to its structure and complexity, some examples of Vermentino can age elegantly, developing more complex dried fruit and subtle minerality characters. Its versatility makes it ideal both as a wine to be sipped alone and as an accompaniment to fish, seafood, and light vegetable dishes.

The Best Vermentino Wine

• Laura Aschero: from Family Vineyards to Artisan Wines
• Domaine Giacometti: discovering Corsica's Indigenous Grapes
• Argiolas: the Spirit of Vermentino from Sardinia
• Lunae Bosoni: tasting Liguria
• Piero Mancini: unique Terroir Explored

Different Types of  Italian Vermentino

It is a multifaceted and versatile variety, which assumes different characteristics depending on where it grows, although it always reflects, through different shades, the Tyrrhenian soul of the Italian peninsula:

•  Sardinian Vermentino is cultivated in almost all the island's provinces, though its favourite area is undoubtedly Gallura, which is in the extreme north of the island. In this small piece of land, bordered by the Limbara and Monte Nieddu mountains and exposed all year round to the currents of the Tyrrhenian Sea that shape the granite soil, DOCG white wines of excellent quality are produced.
• In most cases, these are full-bodied and intense expressions, developing a good alcohol content, such as Vermentino Superiore, and featuring an olfactory range characterised by citrus fruits and Mediterranean bush with pleasant salty undertones. 
• The Alghero version is also worth mentioning, as it originates from soils with different morphological conformations and offers more straightforward and immediate interpretations while maintaining a Mediterranean and fruity flavour.
• The Liguria region is cultivated with heroic viticulture in the Ligurian Riviera of Ponente, the Gulf of Tigullio, the Polcevera Valley, the Cinque Terre and the Colli di Luni. The best grapes originate on the steep slopes that plunge into the deep Tyrrhenian Sea, giving life to a fresh and direct white wine, which is characterised by a delicate olfactory profile of juicy fruit, such as apples and peaches, white flowers and aromatic herbs, with hints of almonds. In recent years, several producers have been using the maceration technique to obtain a richer and more complex product in flavour and aroma.
• The Tuscan Vermentino is mainly diffused along the Tuscan and Maremma coasts, where it gives life to an elegant and fresh white wine. This wine develops a characteristic mineral note in addition to the typical dried fruit and citrus scents.